(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2008-01-08 10:43

For too long, many of Shanghai's so-called ethnic restaurants have taken their menus, decor and even staff uniforms to laughable, stereotypical extremes.

Elia, then, is a refreshing find; the kitchen's contemporary Mediterranean flavors are innovative, yet still seem grounded in regional tradition. When we entered, executive manager Zefi Koumantou was busily charming her guests, chatting with familiar patrons and welcoming newcomers. She then graced us with her warm presence and suggested a fresh, generously-sized Greek salad (RMB 65) and a wonderful, well-balanced sea bass fricassee with undertones of thyme (RMB 130).

For dessert, our Amaretto lemon mousse with orange confit, lime syrup and thyme (RMB 55) was a complex but delicate treat. In short, Elia is among Gubei's brightest culinary stars-and even proves a formidable opponent to downtown's best mid-range eateries.

Elia
Daily 8:30am-12mn.
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 375
Location: 479 Guyang Lu, by Yaohong Lu
Tel: 021-51753077