(Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2008-03-25 14:01

The magnificent wine was everything the St Regis Aficionado program stood for. Danieli's ranks among the top Italian fine-dining restaurants in the city, and has been doing rip-roaring trade of late. Italian chef Teo Chiaravalloti demonstrated why with superb dishes that matched the wines spot on.

The marinated scallops, avocado, mango and limocello salad was a great match for the 2004 Yattarna Chardonnay. Often described as the "white Grange," Yattarna is extremely limited in supply and was not wasted on this first course. The mango emphasized the tropical notes that the wine carried.

Next was smoked duck breast confit on goat's cheese gnocchi. The quality of the Rouget duck was second to none, and the smoked flavor blended beautifully with the oakiness of the 2004 RWT Barossa Valley Shiraz. The potato dumplings were incredibly smooth, covered with the grilled dairy.

The pieces de resistance on the night were the 1999 and 2002 vintages of Grange. While both were still young and tight, the defining characteristics were instantly identifiable. These were wine maker's wines, and allowed aficionados to admire the craftsmanship that went into both years' production.

Such brilliance was not let down in the least by chef Charavalloti's main course of slow-roasted beef rib-eye. Beef ragout and coriander pesto. The meat was painstakingly prepared in the oven for over an hour which gave the meat a tantalizing tenderness, practically melting in the mouth. The ragout was just as tasty, and both cuts of meat spotlighted the 1999 Grange a little more than the 2002.

Dessert was also a showstopper, with a spectacular sugar sculpture around a chocolate fondant. The restaurant paired this sweet treat with the Penfolds Club Reserve Aged Tawny Port - a throwback to the days when Penfolds only made fortified wine.

With the development of Pudong, Danieli's is hitting fine form. The Sunday lunch, with an ala carte buffet and free-flowing Bollinger champagne, is a huge hit with local residents. Priced at 398 yuan (US$55), the meal features a rotating regional menu each week, turning the spotlight on the diverse cuisines found across Italy.

Address: 889 Dongfang Road

Tel: 5050-4567

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