Xi'an is not just for seein' but for listenin', too

The ancient capital has plenty of musical messages.

The city of Xi'an has a history in which it can well and truly revel. First, of course, the capital of Shaanxi province was the national capital during 13 dynasties, then there are the world famous Terracotta Warriors, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, which was built during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), and the city wall, built more than 600 years ago.

However, for Cao Shi, who was born and raised in the city, the heart of Xi'an lies in the commonly seen places, such as the shabby and narrow streets near his home, and the small restaurant selling yangrou paomo, or flat-bread in mutton soup. It is also about the Qinqiang Opera, a high-pitched local opera that his father listens to every day on the radio, and the drink bingfeng, similar to orange soda.

In 2007 Cao created his own way of portraying and celebrating his home city by forming a rock band, Black Head.

The name is inspired by the dialect and Qinqiang Opera. Black head is a type of role in Qinqiang Opera, referring to rough and dominant male roles with heavy facial painting.

With his own musical language and singing in Shaanxi dialect, Cao-along with four other band members, who are also Xi'an natives, vocalist Wang Dazhi, bassist Shuang Xi, guitarist Zhang Ning and drummer Bi Tao-made his debut appearance during the reality show The Big Band on the online streaming service iQiyi on June 1.

With a rock and hip-hop song titled Dishes in Shaanxi, the band raps in Shaanxi dialect about a dozen local foods that members have enjoyed since they were children.

"We constantly get inspired by the city since it keeps changing," says Cao, 42, who learned to play guitar when he was 13. "We sing about our memories of the city and how we see the city's changes through music. It's not the same Xi'an city in our childhood memories any more. There are bars near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and tourists visiting from all around the world. We have always prided ourselves on growing up with the city and witnessing its changes."

Cao, who graduated from Xi'an Technological University with a master's degrees in computer science, taught at a college in the city from 2003 to 2013 before he quit to become a full-time singer-songwriter with the band Black Head.

Xi'an is no stranger to rock music, some of the country's biggest rock stars being from there, including the rock singer-songwriters Zheng Jun and Xu Wei.

However, older people usually regard indie rock singer-songwriters as being rebellious and reckless.

Cao's parents were against his playing rock music, and he recalls that when the band was formed he did not expect it to last longer than five years.

"I just enjoyed writing songs and doing rehearsals with the band members. Two years after the band was formed we got more and more opportunities to perform. The response from audiences gave us confidence to take the band seriously."

Black Head has since released four full-length albums, all based on their lives in Xi'an.

"Usually I really feel like I'm finding the words that already exist, and then themes emerge in my head," Cao says of the band's songwriting. "We compose during our rehearsal and the rhythms naturally match with the tunes of Shaanxi dialect."

The band draws a lot of inspiration from Qinqiang Opera and its ancient sounds, which, like many traditional Chinese operas has been largely overlooked by contemporary young people. Traditional Chinese musical instruments such as the banhu, a two-stringed spike fiddle, are used in their songs.

Last year Black Head went on its first large-scale tour, visiting about 16 Chinese cities. It also performed at large outdoor music festivals around the country, including the Strawberry Music Festival by Modern Sky, one of the biggest indie record labels in the country.

"I'm overwhelmed by the warm response we get from audiences, who may not come from Xi'an like us but share our love for the city," Cao says.