Macy's plan to stop fur sales irks dealers

Macy's decision to halt sales of fur products at all its US stores by 2021 has sparked anger among some fur sellers.

The decision, announced Monday, will lead to the closure of 34 fur vaults at Macy's and 22 Maximilian salons at Bloomingdale's. There are 600 Macy's stores and 38 Bloomingdale's.

Macy's said the move came after two years of market research with the Humane Society and an acknowledgement of a change in consumer attitudes.

Jeff Gennette, chairman and CEO of Macy's, said in a statement: "We remain committed to providing great fashion … and we will continue to offer high-quality and fashionable faux fur alternatives." 

Steve Cowit, president and CEO of Henry Cowit Inc and Madison Avenue furs, a third-generation furrier in Manhattan, told China Daily: "It's a total shame that a major department store is capitulating to a minority animal rights movement and taking away their customers' freedom of choice. It's a freedom of choice whether you want to wear fur or leather.

"The animal rights groups will not finish with fur. … Their mission is to eliminate all animal use. So, while Macy's is giving up fur, what comes next? Leather, suede, silk, wool? If not, groups like PETA (People for The Ethical Treatment of Animals) will come after them," he said. "Fake fur is a total disaster for the environment. Real fur is sustainable and recyclable. Fake fur is not biodegradable. It's made from petroleum."

In Macy's flagship 2.5 million-square-foot store on 34th Street in Manhattan, a mannequin on the fifth floor was dressed in a black and gold dress. A black fur scarf was draped over one shoulder. But the scarf wasn't real fur; the label clearly stated faux fur, and the cost was $49.50.

Tamara, 52, from Poland, who didn't want to give her surname, was wearing a black fur coat while shopping for perfume in Macy's. "Look at my coat! It's fake but it looks good, right? I don't want to hurt an animal to look good. It's not right."

Some fur coats at Macy's were on racks offering big discounts. A multicolored fox jacket priced at $2,495 was on sale for $1,745, with an additional 30 percent off. A black mink coat was $5,995. It had a 40 percent-off sign above it.

Mary, 77, from California, who also didn't want to give her surname, said: "It's good to ban fur sales. Some species are becoming extinct. To people who must have a fur coat, perhaps they ought to donate money to help those animals."

Macy's ban on fur comes after designer brands Gucci, Georgio Armani, Burberry, Donna Karan and Michael Kors said they, too, would stop selling fur.

In October, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed two bills banning the manufacture and sale of fur products starting in 2023.

The ban includes religious exemptions and exceptions for leather, dog and cat fur, sheep and goatskin products along with animal products from taxidermy.

Kitty Block, president and CEO of the Humane Society of the United States, said in a statement: "With so many designers, major cities and now a state taking a stand against the sale of fur, we're that much closer to ending this unnecessary and inhumane practice."    

US production of fur sales was $531 million in 2018, according to UK-based Euromonitor International, a market research company.

PETA's Executive Vice-President Tracy Reiman told China Daily in a statement: "PETA members have never let up in campaigning for Macy's to go fur-free, starting back in the '80s, when we made the store our prime target for Fur-Free Friday (aka Black Friday) and activists were arrested for blocking the doors at Macy's Herald Square, and later for disrupting its Thanksgiving Day parade — so PETA is toasting Macy's new, fur-free decision."

In New York, there was anger earlier this year after Corey Johnson, speaker of the City Council, proposed a bill banning the sale of new furs in the city.

Companies in the city's fur district have manufactured and sold furs there for hundreds of years.

Marc Kaufman, CEO of Marc Kaufman Furs on 30th Street in Manhattan, which has made one-off fur coats for scores of celebrities, believes that the Macy's ban could help small fur businesses like his, which has been around since 1870.

"I think the small mom-and-pop stores could even do better. It's disgusting what they (Macy's) did. They got bullied by a couple of people, a small percentage, they scream they yell, but it won't affect us. Our October [sales] have been fantastic," he told China Daily.