Russian revival arrives at old Beijing restaurant

BEIJING — For Irina Pratsyuk, Spring Festival came as a mood booster because she once again had the opportunity to entertain guests in the restaurant where she works.

The 52-year-old performs at Moscow Restaurant, an iconic Russian restaurant that opened in Beijing back in 1954. Many Beijingers affectionately call it Lao Mo, or "Old Moscow".

During the Spring Festival holiday, the restaurant regained its usual bustle following China's optimization of its COVID-19 restrictions. Customers braved the freezing cold to line up outside as they waited for a table, and Pratsyuk was inundated with requests.

"I was definitely tired but super happy to welcome so many people. And most importantly, many diners still recognized me," she said. "All these positives have driven away the anxiety we faced until recently due to the shortage of customers."

Pratsyuk visited China for the first time in 1995 and returned 10 years later to work at a restaurant in Dalian, Liaoning province, where she was impressed by the kindness and friendliness of her colleagues and customers. "I fell in love with China then," she recalled.

In 2009, she moved to Beijing and started her career at Moscow Restaurant. "It's my honor to perform here, and I feel blessed when my songs and dances resonate with diners," she said.

Pratsyuk's son later married a Chinese woman and settled in Beijing. With her encouragement, her 2-year-old granddaughter also joins her on stage from time to time.

Over the years, Pratsyuk has witnessed the country's rapid development. "Skyscrapers have sprung up all over, and online shopping, digital payment, food-delivery and car-hailing services have made our lives more convenient and comfortable," she said.

Pratsyuk's experience has drawn many other Russian performers to work at the restaurant, which at one point had nearly 20. Russian music and dances have made the restaurant famous.

However, many of the performers were forced to return to Russia over the past three years when their visas expired and business waned due to the impact of COVID-19. "The most difficult period is over, and I am sure more performers will be coming back," she said. "That is one of my hopes for the new year as well."

For diners, the restaurant's quintessential Russian elements and nostalgic atmosphere continue to be big attractions. "I used to come here with my parents when I was a child. The Russian decor reminds me of many good times," said Han Ling, a diner who also brought her children to the restaurant for a taste of authentic Russian cuisine.

Xinhua