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Chinese restaurants in US look to enhance dining experience

By RENA LI in Los Angeles | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2024-09-18 10:48

In the diverse culinary landscape of the United States, there are nearly 100,000 Asian restaurants in the US, where Chinese cuisine is prominent.

Yet, despite the popularity of Chinese food — which is featured on 39 percent of the menus at Asian restaurants — leaders in the Chinese catering industry are calling for a shift in focus.

At a recent industry meeting, experts emphasized that while taste remains crucial, the future success of Chinese restaurants in America hinges on enhancing the overall dining experience.

Amy Duan, founder of Chihuo and initiator of the Taste of Asia event, stressed that thriving in the competitive American market requires more than just flavor; it demands an investment in ambience, service and cultural storytelling.

"Food is the language that (means) you like people, so there's no politics, no barriers … everyone will enjoy the beauty of good food," Duan told China Daily at a recent North America Asian food industry conference and exhibition in Los Angeles.

Hundreds of people in the catering industry attended the conference to discuss franchise models, marketing and brands, localization strategies and supply chains.

As American consumers increasingly seek authentic, globally influenced culinary experiences, Chinese restaurant owners are encouraged to adapt and innovate, learning from the successful models of American chains like McDonald's and Burger King, to build a loyal and diverse customer base, Duan said.

Chinese cuisine is renowned for its rich and diverse flavors, yet Westerners might not fully appreciate the intricate techniques and cultural significance behind its preparation.

Many Chinese dishes in the US have been adapted to suit American tastes, often resulting in a sweeter, less-complex flavor profile. That has led to Americanized Chinese food becoming the primary representation of the cuisine.

"Most of the Chinese restaurants are feeling lonely. They don't know if it's the best way to do the business in America and how to promote the Asian food culture in America," Duan said.

While discussing expanding a restaurant chain globally, the industry leaders emphasized the importance of understanding local markets, adapting to customer preferences and overcoming cultural barriers.

Zhao Yong, president of the Asian American Hospitality Alliance, highlighted the challenges facing Chinese cuisine in the US, describing the industry as being in a "red ocean" state — saturated with competition but lacking in cohesive strategy.

He said there are three main problems: low prices leading to a decline in quality, a lack of standardization, and the use of cheap labor, which hinders the industry's growth and potential for public recognition.

"For example, if there is a small restaurant in a small US town with a population of 20,000, soon there will be 10 Chinese restaurants in that town, more than McDonald's, but everyone is undercutting prices, and prices can't go any lower. This has been the traditional expansion method for Chinese restaurants in the US —competing against each other," Zhao said.

To address those issues, Zhao suggested creating national Chinese food festivals, such as Hot Pot Day or Soup Dumpling Day, to promote culinary brands and encourage investment in the Chinese food supply chain.

Such efforts would raise the profile of Chinese cuisine, he said.

However, some experts expressed doubts about introducing too much of the original culture into the US market.

Cervantes Lee, professor of hospitality business at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, said that while authenticity is important, it's crucial to respect local customs and culture.

"The business should be managed by a team familiar with the local market, and the food's flavor must be adapted to suit local tastes," Lee said.

"It's important not to assume that Americans will immediately appreciate our authentic dishes," Duan said.

For Asian restaurants in the US, the focus is often on delivering the best flavors and tastes. However, American customers seek more than just good food; they are drawn to the overall atmosphere — whether classic, upscale or casual — and the story behind the restaurant.

Service is also crucial, as dining out is about enjoying a complete experience, a point emphasized at the gathering.

"Unfortunately, many Asian or Chinese restaurateurs tend to overlook the importance of environment, vibe and service, concentrating solely on taste, which isn't enough to satisfy American diners," Duan said.

Still, Chinese, Korean, Japanese and Thai restaurants are increasingly being included on Michelin's list in recent years. They become popular in the US partly due to adapting their offerings to local palates.

"This approach contrasts with simply copying menus from their home countries and trying to sell them directly to non-native audiences," Duan added.

If the greatest challenge for a Chinese restaurant is to preserve the traditional flavors and cultural heritage of Chinese cuisine while adapting to local American tastes and building a loyal customer base, then Lao Sze Chuan in Chicago has achieved both.

Former Chicago mayor Rahm Emanuel is a loyal customer, often bringing his wife and son to dine there. Emanuel's favorite dish is the dry chili chicken, recognized by the Chicago Tribune as a landmark dish of the city.

His wife favors the sweet lemon crispy shrimp, a contrast to her husband's spicy preference, while their son enjoys the dry-fried string beans with tofu. Meanwhile, at the Lao Sze Chuan branch in Washington DC, former Cabinet secretary Elaine Chao could be savoring the Peking duck at the same time.

Founded in Chicago in 1998 by Tony Hu, also known as Chef Tony, the upscale Chinese restaurant has become more than just another pepper steak spot.

"We develop the menu into four sections to cater to different tastes and preferences," Hu told China Daily.

He said the menus are divided into four sections: traditional hometown dishes for older Chinese immigrants; popular spicy hot pot dishes for young people and international students; American Chinese cuisine like sesame chicken, with a unique twist; and innovative creations such as lemon crispy shrimp.

"Eighty percent of our customers are local Americans; many of them discover flavors and enjoy for a lifetime," Hu said.

Lao Sze Chuan has 16 branches across the US, with eight more in planning stages, turning into destination dining experiences in cities such as Chicago, Washington and Houston, and in the states of Minnesota, Connecticut and Ohio.

"We offer over 20 brand-specific dishes and are continuously developing more," Chef Tony added. "We welcome local partners to join us."

Lao Sze Chuan has received numerous accolades over the years. It was named the No 1 Chinese restaurant and the top takeout restaurant by The Daily Meal. The restaurant also has been featured as one of the best Chinese restaurants by Thrillist and Time Out magazine and has earned the Michelin Bib Gourmand Award seven times in a row.

By sharing the stories behind Chinese cuisine with local communities and universities, the chef and his restaurant have attracted significant mainstream media attention.

"Chinese restaurants need to learn to speak up — it's not enough to just do things well," said Duan. "Chinese cuisine has so many good ingredients and stories to tell, and we are telling the story of the entire Asian community, not just about food."

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