China through unrushed eyes

Following the ancient route

After completing their walk across the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region, the two hikers entered Gansu province and continued east along the ancient Hexi Corridor. They passed desert-edge highways near Wuwei, visited the Leitai Han Tomb, and stood in awe before the red sandstone Danxia landforms in Yongdeng county before arriving in Lanzhou on Nov 27.

"We know that many Chinese people don't consider Lanzhou a big city," Rene says. "But for us, it's super gigantic."

High-rise buildings stretched across the valley, illuminated at night by LED screens, a striking contrast to most of the European cities they were familiar with. Yet, it was not modernity alone that impressed them, but the way it coexisted with history.

"I didn't expect a northwestern inland city to be this modern while still preserving so many traditional Chinese buildings," says Michel. "The contrast is beautiful."

From Santai Pavilion in Lanshan Park, perched on Gaolan Mountain, the two looked down at the Yellow River rushing beneath. From that vantage point, Lanzhou's distinctive urban form, shaped by mountains and water, became clear.

Museums quickly became an essential part of their exploration. At the Gansu Provincial Museum, they explored the legacy of the Silk Road: Majiayao painted pottery and the iconic Galloping Horse Treading on a Flying Swallow.

"After walking through these places ourselves, seeing the artifacts made everything feel connected," says Michel.

For them, the Silk Road was never just a trade route. "It's a bridge for dialogue between civilizations," says Rene. "In the museums, we could really feel the heartbeat of the city."

On Nov 29, Rene and Michel held a small meet-up at a local beef noodle restaurant, which they described as the soul of the city. They wanted to learn how the iconic dish was made and share stories from their journey.

"For walkers, beef noodles are perfect," says Rene. "They're fast, nutritious, and the soup gives us energy and hydration."

They watched a noodle master demonstrate the art of hand-pulled noodles before eagerly trying it themselves. "Eating noodles is easy, pulling them is not," they joke. Still, the steaming bowls they made with their own hands brought warmth to their winter journey. "I think we can cook them for our families and friends when we are back home," says Rene.

"For us, understanding a city means using our feet, our hands and our taste buds," adds Michel.