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A new era, steeped in tradition

By Yang Feiyue | China Daily | Updated: 2026-01-09 05:57

A sommelier in traditional Chinese clothing pours tea for young foreign enthusiasts at "The Beijing Charm of Tea" Global Youth Tea Party held at Huguang Guild Hall that brought together more than 50 representatives. [Photo provided to China Daily]

In between business discussions, guests naturally inquire about the origin of the tea and specialties, he says.

"We don't force-feed information. We only demonstrate our professionalism at the precise moment the client's interest is piqued," he adds.

Having worked for major tea enterprises before, Lei deeply understands every link of the supply chain from source to end user.

For him, the teahouse is both a brand-facing consumer touchpoint and a laboratory for validating and promoting products from his supply chain.

"In this tea business, you must first love it to persevere," Lei says, adding that while the industry may not lead to overnight riches, it is sufficient to "support a family" and sustain a lasting enterprise.

Zhang Yanbin, director of the commercial catering services development center under the State-owned Assets Supervision and Administration Commission of the State Council, notes that the past year has seen encouraging progress in revitalizing traditional tea culture through innovation.

"Traditional tea culture is reaching younger audiences through new formats," Zhang says.

"Smart tea spaces, immersive experiences and other emerging models are gaining traction, while the 'teahouse-plus' approach is creating new growth opportunities."

He calls on teahouse operators to engage more actively in national initiatives, including the Ministry of Commerce's "15-minute convenient living circle" program and the development of national model pedestrian streets, to create more diverse and attractive consumer scenarios.

Looking ahead, Liu Qiuping has set her sights firmly on the younger generation.

"If people born in the 1990s and 2000s do not come to tea, we risk becoming nothing more than a punch line and a relic of history," she says.

She does not reject the rise of new-style tea drinks.

"They may not be traditional tea, but they allow young people to approach the idea of tea in their own way."

In Liu's view, the mission of traditional teahouses is precisely to open a door for those initially drawn in, leading them toward a deeper, purer understanding of Chinese tea culture.

"When you truly taste a good cup of tea, it becomes a beautiful trap," Liu says with a smile.

"Once you step inside, you can never quite leave."

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