The craft behind China's sweet success

From model workers and master craftsmen to factory hands and gigeconomy workers, China's vast workforce is the bedrock of national development. Launched by the All-China Federation of Trade Unions, this series shines a spotlight on the responsibility and resilience of the modern Chinese working class, documenting their struggles and stories from the front lines to showcase the dedication, craftsmanship and pioneering spirit driving progress across every sector.

A giant cake celebrating the World-Skills Competition was a centerpiece at the event, held in Shanghai in late September. Its creator, pastry chef Gan Wenhua, spent the morning explaining her craft to visitors, her voice hoarse but her passion evident.

Gan, director and chief technician of the Shanghai Modern Food Vocational Skills Training Center, served as an expert and coach for China's national team in the competition's patisserie and confectionery category.

"The patisserie and confectionery category at the competition is centered on the Chinese panda. All entries, technical execution, design and aesthetic presentation must strictly adhere to this theme," Gan said.

From compliance with the technical manual and marzipan figurines to themed decorative cakes and chocolate and sugar art modeling, the four modules — each with a distinct focus — assess contestants' foundational skills, precision, aesthetics and structural control, Gan explained.

Since its introduction in 1997, the patisserie and confectionery category has been a staple of the WorldSkills Competition. China joined the fray in 2017, earning a Medallion for Excellence at the 44th edition. The landscape changed dramatically in September 2024 when Liu Xinru claimed the gold medal in Lyon, France, marking the first-ever gold for China in this discipline.

China now has a robust contestant training and selection system for this category. This year's gold medalist, Wang Tianxiang from Anhui province, is one of the standout students coached by Gan and her expert team.

"Wang is a veteran of national competitions, and his psychological maturity and resilience make him a formidable competitor in high-stakes environments," Gan said. She added that the team employs a preparation strategy in which coaches manage the macro-level design and the contestant handles the micro-level execution.

The coaching and judging panel polishes every aspect, from creative concepts to technical solutions. This allows the contestant to dedicate himself fully to perfecting his technique and maintaining peak performance, striving not just to meet but to exceed the design benchmarks when it counts, Gan said.

From an apprentice to a leader in the industry, Gan has dedicated over three decades to pastry arts since she entered the profession at the age of 18.

Guided by her motto, "a qualitative leap comes from quantitative accumulation; stay focused and strive for excellence", Gan has overcome technical challenges such as shaping chocolate dough and stabilizing whipped cream for piping. She has developed dozens of new products, established over 110 standardized procedures, and explored innovative techniques including laser cutting, 3D printing and flavor microencapsulation.

Additionally, Gan spearheaded the creation of the national professional standard for pastry and bread baking and contributed to the compilation of the textbook for Western pastry chefs. Her dedication to mentorship has produced six national technical experts, alongside dozens of high-level professionals.

As the patisserie and confectionery industry evolves with new technology, Gan believes the essence of craftsmanship remains unchanged. She distinguishes between "change" and "constancy": the former involves artificial intelligence-assisted design that boosts efficiency, while the latter is the unwavering commitment to her original aspiration. Although smart tools can aid in design, the craft's core — meticulous hand-shaping, precise temperature control and extreme attention to detail — always relies on the craftsman's personal skill.

"To me, the spirit of craftsmanship is quite simple: it is dedicating a lifetime to doing one thing well," Gan said. She added that craftsmen in the new era must embrace technological innovation and keep pace with the times, while remaining true to their original aspirations and dedicating themselves to their craft. "By pursuing excellence in every piece and persevering on the path of skill development, we can realize our self-worth and contribute to building a nation strong in skills," she said.