The Chile supporters celebrate during the World Cup Group B victory over Spain at the Maracanã. Photograph: Wang Yuguo/Rex

（在位于里约热内卢的马拉卡纳大球场里，智利队球迷在B组小组赛结束后庆祝球队战胜西班牙队。图片来源：王玉国/Rex）

Olé! Olé olé olé! Chile! Chile! The Maracanã rang so loudly with snarky singing by the end that it felt as if it would take off and fly to Valparaíso, powered merely by voice. Spain has not been so cruelly humiliated since El Dorado was cancelled from British TV, its name so mocked since Manuel worked in Fawlty Towers, and the Chilean fans, who made up the overwhelming majority in the stadium, made sure they felt it.

"Olé! Olé olé olé!""智利！智利！"狂欢的歌声和兴奋的尖叫回荡在马拉卡纳大球场（Arena Maracana）上空，仅仅是声音就让人感觉是快要降落在智利瓦尔帕莱索(Valparaiso)一样。自从《埃尔多拉多》(El Dorado)被英国电视台封杀后，自从曼纽尔为弗尔蒂旅馆(Fawlty Towers)效力之后，西班牙队这个名字已经没有被如此羞辱过了。可占据场馆中绝大多数席位的智利球迷们，十分确信它们又找到了羞辱西班牙的感觉。

Yet despite the boom of the chants, winning the game seemed almost to calm them, soften down their earlier near hysterical excitement to simply delighted contentment.

抛开一浪高过一浪的赞美不说，赢得这场比赛也在让智利冷静，他们需要从歇斯底里的兴奋平息到简单的心满意足。

Chile’s fans? Excited? If any member of the press was somehow unsure of the answer to this when arriving to watch the match, despite having walked through what felt like several miles of Chile fans and Chile flags to reach the stadium, the answer soon landed in their lap – literally so, in some cases. It was not quite another Chilean coup d’état but it was certainly a storming of the barricades when a few dozen Chile fans rushed past an overwhelmed security, knocking over gates, and ran into the press room, breaking a glass door and tearing down a partition on their way.

智利的球迷呢？兴奋吗？如果有任何媒体朋友在观看比赛时对这个问题的答案不确定的话，请看看场馆里绵延数里的智利球迷和国旗，答案写在每一个智利球迷的脸上——毫无疑问是肯定的。这不是一场智利政变，这是智利球迷突破了比风暴还强大的障碍，冲破了重重安保，撞击着门，冲进直播间，破碎了挡道的一扇玻璃门和一面隔离墙。

What were they protesting against? Fifa? Football? General injustice? None of these, it seemed. They just wanted to get into the stadium without a ticket. Truly, the revolutionary spirit lives in the Chilean breast. Security guards eventually pulled themselves together and, after a bit of kerfuffle, marched them out – but not before the entire scene had been eagerly vined, tweeted and instagrammed to bejesus by the world’s sports press.

他们在抗议什么？国际足联？足球本身？还是普遍不公？看起来他们抗议的不是其中任何一个。他们只是想逃票进入比赛的场馆。实在的说，智利人的心中装着革命精神。不过最终，骚乱之后，安保人员还是把这一群疯狂的球迷控制在一起，押送出比赛场地。尽管是在一切都被全世界的体育记者讨论、分享、发布上网之后。

It was almost enough to make one feel a little sorry for Fifa: the first real breach in security in this World Cup happened in the press room. Almost.

这就不得不让人对国际足联有一丝失望了：本届世界杯的第一场真正的球迷违规事件居然发生在媒体中心。

On the other hand, while the fans may not have been making any particular protest, they did leave behind one instructive lesson. Among the destruction they left in their wake in the press area there was a small pile of Crocs. Lesson: if you are going to go on a rampage, opt for footwear that stays on your feet.

从另一方面来看，球迷们可能不是在制造任何抗议，而是实际上留下了一个具有指导意义的教训。在球迷们在媒体区中造成的破坏里，有一堆卡洛驰拖鞋。教训就是：如果你要参加一场骚乱，请选择好脚上的装备。

In truth, the excitement had been building for some time. Three hours before kick-off it already felt like a Chilean street party outside the Maracanã. Fans sporting the Chilean flag, or at least images of it, around their shoulders, on their face, in their hair and – feel the pride, Salvador Allende, democracy lives! – on beer cups affixed to their heads, clustered in rowdy packs in the street and caused traffic pile-ups.

事实上，这场骚乱在发生之前就有预兆。在停止售票的三小时前，马拉卡纳球场外就隐现智利球迷的街头派对。球迷们挥舞着智利国旗或者是印着智利国旗的图片，把它们挂在肩膀上、画在脸上、绑在头发上，以此来激发自己身为智利球迷的骄傲、萨尔瓦多精神和民主精神。球迷们将啤酒杯挂在头上，成群的出现在大街上，你推我攘，十分粗暴；对当地交通造成了不小的麻烦。

Fans marched up and down, pleading for tickets to the sold-out game. Bars all round the area were filled with Chile fans bursting into songs that, what they lacked in tune, they more than made up for in volume and sheer good cheer.

球迷们冲上冲下，因为比赛门票售罄而争论不休。这片区域内的酒吧里全都是走调大喊着歌曲的智利球迷。他们不断提高嘶吼的声音来欢呼鼓舞。

“Am I optimistic? Of course. We will win 2–0 for sure,” crowed Christian, with a triumphant swish of the Chilean flag about his shoulders.

“我乐观吗？当然啦！我们2比0赢了西班牙！”Christian欢呼着，骄傲的把自己肩上披的国旗甩得嗖嗖作响。

“Did you see Spain lose in the last match? Ha! Chi Chi Chi LE LE LE!” chanted a chap sporting the aforementioned beer cups on either side of his head, who gave his name as “Chile Forever.”

“你知道西班牙在上一场比赛输给我们了吗？哈哈哈！智利！智利！智利！”一个小伙子炫耀着说，并且头的两侧玩弄着之前提到的那种啤酒杯——并称之为“智利万岁”。

At most of the matches so far there has been a heavy presence of Brazil’s yellow T-shirts among the crowd, locals happy to come to a match but still pointedly supporting the national team. But the prospect of a South American team beating the former champions overcame any sense of neighbourly rivalry.

在至今为止，大多数比赛中，巴西队的黄色T恤在人群中出现得很多。巴西人本地人很意观看世界杯比赛，但他们坚定地支持自己的国家队。不过，对于南美队伍智利击败前世界杯冠军的期望还是克服了“邻里之争”观念。

“Of course I am supporting Chile. Normally, no, but it’s good to see Spain lose. Everyone always wants the champions to lose, no? And I want the World Cup to stay in South America,” said Leo, a Rio native but wearing the full Chile kit for this event.

“我当然支持智利！正常来说，不，但是西班牙被淘汰是件好事。每个人都希望上届冠军吃败仗，是吧？我还希望世界杯一直都在南美举办，”穿着智利国家队球衣的里约当地人Leo说道。

A group of thirtysomething men wearing the Chilean flag as face paint turned out to be from New York. A woman wearing the Chilean flag as a minidress was from France. “You always support the underdog, no?” she asked rhetorically.

一众三十多岁的男人身上披着智利国旗，脸上也画着智利国旗的彩绘，可他们居然是从纽约来的。一位女士身着智利国旗图案迷你裙，可她却是法国人。“你总是支持失败者，不是吗？”她故作正经地说。

In fact, it was almost impossible to find any Spain fans, optimistic or otherwise, at all before the match, save for a cluster of young men in matador outfits who were attracting some requisite jeers. “I’m feeling good! I’m sure Spain will win,” said Gui Solzarno. “But to be honest, I don’t really care – I’m from Mexico.”

事实上，找到西班牙球迷的机会微乎其微，并且你还需要乐观的看；不然不会在比赛开始之前，就有一群穿着斗牛士衣服的小伙子受到不少嘲笑。“我感觉很好！我确信西班牙会赢！”Gui Solzarno说，“但说实话我不是特别关心——因为我来自墨西哥。”

The old cliché goes that Brazil “bleeds football” and it certainly looked it in the Maracanã, with all the stands bathed in Spain’s and (mainly) Chile’s red shirts. The Canción Nacional was sung with such relish and basso profondo by Chile’s fans they nearly caused yet more damage to the press area by making it quiver.

说巴西是“血色足球”（bleed footall）或许是老生常谈了，可在马拉卡纳就是这样。所有的建筑都沐浴在西班牙和（主要是）智利的红色球衣之中。智利球迷们津津有味的唱着男低音版的智利民族歌曲，他们激动得颤抖，差点制造了比对新闻中心更多的破坏。

The Marcha Real, by contrast, sounded downright pitiful. Beautiful things rarely have beautiful deaths and so it looked for Spain at that moment, surrounded by a full stadium of true and fair-weather Chile fans, come to watch them crash and boo them towards it.

相反的，西班牙队歌听起来就是彻头彻尾的令人遗憾了。美物难美逝。所以，在那个瞬间，整个场馆的智利球迷围绕着西班牙队喝着倒彩，见证西班牙的崩溃。

And when that crash finally came, the stadium took off in flight.

当那种失败袭来的时候，马拉卡纳球场已经对西班牙渐行渐远了。

（译者：孙隽楠1102 编辑：王旭泉）