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Cosplay 'general' guards famous pass

By ZHANG YI and SHI XUEFAN | China Daily | Updated: 2024-01-16 08:20

Li Sen (left) interacts with visitors and gives them souvenir passes for Jiayuguan Pass. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Tourists visiting the ancient pass of Jiayuguan, a famed section at the western end of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) Great Wall, can immerse themselves in replica scenes from hundreds of years ago by interacting with the gatekeepers.

The pass, located near the city of Jiayuguan in Gansu province, was a key waypoint on the ancient Silk Road, from which foreign merchants and envoys from Central and Western Asia mostly entered China, and Chinese merchants traveled west.

To provide visitors with a vivid historical experience, staff members at the scenic area play the role of gatekeepers. They "check" tourists' identities and issue them with passes, thus letting them participate in a simulated departure ceremony.

The most popular "gatekeeper" is Li Sen. As he is familiar with ancient place names across China, the 43-year-old plays the role of a general in the army guarding the pass and engages tourists in humorous conversations.

With a broad forehead and goatee beard, the bald man is tall and strong, and he dresses in a garment adorned with dragon patterns. However, his rough appearance contrasts sharply with the knowledge he displays.

When visitors come to pass through the gate, Li asks about their hometowns and the reason for their departure. After "verification", he uses a brush to write the ancient name of the visitor's hometown on a simulated passport, then stamps it with a seal he engraved himself.

After waiting in line for a long time, Yen Pei-yu, a tourist from Taiwan who traveled to Jiayuguan this summer, had the chance to interact with Li. She told him that she planned to go to the West to sell pearl milk tea, a Taiwan specialty.

Li replied humorously that it would be a great business opportunity, wished her a safe journey and handed Yen her "passport". In response, Yen clenched her fist in a salute to Li.

She said: "I was amazed when I mentioned that I am from Taipei and he immediately said the city's ancient name. He is knowledgeable. No wonder he has become an internet celebrity."

After some of Li's conversations with tourists were shared on short video platforms, he gained overnight fame, attracting tens of thousands of new followers and encouraging tourists to visit Jiayuguan.

"My goal is to bring joy to others and help them gain some historical knowledge along the way," he said.

The yellow hue of the buildings helps the pass blend harmoniously with the surrounding desert under the scorching sun. As a local saying goes: "Leaving Jiayuguan, tears won't dry. Ahead lies the Gobi Desert, beyond is the gate of Hell." Accompanied by the wind and yellow sand, Li said: "I could feel the soldiers guarding the border in the past. Sometimes I even wonder if I was a general at Jiayuguan in a previous life."

Several years ago, he decided to attract more visitors by developing souvenirs that would give them a sense of cultural experience and help them share stories about the place.

He started by writing pass certificates on paper, and then developed printed scrolls that are mounted on wood. He also wrote suitable lines for the general he plays and even made armor and battle boots for himself. During the spring and autumn seasons, he dons a suit of thick armor.

On the desk at his outdoor stall, there is a history book and also a booklet with notes he has made about historical events, including battles that happened in Jiayuguan, and ancient place names from all around the country.

Li said he gained all the knowledge from books and his daily interactions with visitors from different places. To interact with foreign tourists, he has taught himself basic phrases in more than 20 languages.

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