Festival freeze

Confronting reality

In Hunza, a district of fewer than 100,000 people, residents are confronting that reality without artificial snow or refrigeration systems — and without certainty.

Winter has long been quieter than summer in Hunza, but residents say erratic snowfall, floods and impassable roads deter visitors who come to see snow-covered peaks and frozen lakes, just as the Karakoram Interlude had begun drawing travelers from across Pakistan and beyond.

Naseera Khatoon runs Murku Cafe overlooking the pool in Altit. Her daughter, Arifa, plays ice hockey. In previous years, tournament week meant steady customers, with families gathering long after matches ended over meals of traditional soup and dumplings.