Chinese netizens cause apology by French fashion label

A wave of criticism from Chinese online users has pushed French fashion label Lemaire to issue a public apology, after a fragrance campaign was widely condemned as culturally insensitive.

The controversy centers on visuals promoting Lemaire's "Objets Senteur" collection, a line of home fragrance objects. Campaign images featuring braided forms paired with long garments and scissors were interpreted by many Chinese consumers as referencing the queue hairstyle associated with the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911)—a symbol tied to oppression and historical trauma.

One widely circulated post on RedNote described the campaign as a "failed act of visual communication" that evoked associations with "violence and humiliation". Many online citizens argued the imagery was historically loaded and offensive.

In a statement posted on social media, the Paris-based brand said the collection's centerpiece object, "Tresse"—French for braid—is a handwoven linen fragrance holder. It acknowledged that it had "not sufficiently considered differences in perception and sensitivity across cultural contexts" and apologized for the discomfort caused, adding that it would review internal processes to strengthen cultural awareness.

The episode underscores the challenges facing international fashion houses as they navigate the country's complex cultural landscape, where historical references can carry heightened emotional weight and trigger swift online backlash.

Lemaire has since removed the disputed visuals from its website and social media accounts.

Founded in 1991 by Christophe Lemaire, a former artistic director of womenswear at Hermes, the label is known for its understated, minimalist aesthetic. It has expanded internationally with backing from Fast Retailing, the parent company of Uniqlo, which acquired a minority stake in 2018.

China has been central to that expansion. The brand opened a boutique in Chengdu, Sichuan province, in 2024, followed by a flagship store in Shanghai and a Beijing location earlier this year.