Ganges (Sanlitun Village branch)

Location: S93-3 Village Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang District //北京朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village, S93-3。Tel:010-6416 0181/ 6416 6121

We Brits have rather high expectations when it comes to Indian cuisine, so I must admit that I arrived at the newest Ganges branch in Sanlitun Village wondering whether it would be able to match the UK’s finest.

Settling down with a menu, I was comforted to note the inclusion of some old favourites from both North and South India, including Vegetable Samosas, Tandoori Chicken, Chicken Tikka Masala and Lamb Rogan Josh; but was more impressed to see exciting fusion-style dishes, and even (extra kudos for this one) the Mumbai street food Batata Wada.

It would certainly be fair to say that Ganges caters to all tastes, be their clients ex-pat Indians, Westerners looking to recreate their Friday night curry fest or local Chinese who are often completely new to the cuisine.

As a result the menu is something of a tomb with around 150 dishes, which may leave some feeling a little lost and overwhelmed, although the staff seemed both able and happy to offer guidance.

We followed the recommendations of general manager Hetal Hemnani and started with a fabulous range of barbeque Tandoor snacks, including Mushroom Tikka (38RMB), Tandoori Chicken (quarter, half and whole portions), a stuffed and marinated whole Tandoori Pomfret (68RMB), and Tandoori Prawns (108RMB).

The latter were enormous and juicy, making for a particularly indulgent treat, while for traditionalists I would heartily recommend the Tandoori Chicken, which was soft and tender inside, with a delicately-spiced skin.

Next came the all-important curries. We sampled Prawn Masala (68RMB), Murg Masalam (barbequed chicken in spicy gravy with tomato and cashews – 51RMB), Channa Masala (north Indian spiced chickpea curry – 44RMB), Palak Paneer (homemade cottage cheese in a delicately spiced spinach gravy – 44RMB), Chicken Tikka Masala (which needs no introduction! 48RMB) and Paneer Pansanda (cottage cheese slices sandwiching a layer of minced vegetables in a thick gravy – 48RMB), along with several types of naan and saffron rice, and were understandably stuffed!

Overall the dishes were tasty and well-cooked using high quality ingredients. Particular highlights for me were the Murg Masalam, which was delightfully rich in flavour with a good combination of textures, and the Paneer Pansanda, which gives a fresh twist to traditional ingredients and has a welcome cooling effect after all the spice!

Although the portions are quite small, the curries themselves are very filling and flavoursome so a little does go a long way. If you are on a real shoestring budget however then opt for the lunchtime buffet, which offers a tasty and varied selection from the menu for a very decent 42RMB.

And if you have any space left after your main meal, do try the East-West fusion desert dish Gulab Jamun (25RMB) - a lovely sweet end to refresh the palate and satisfy any lingering sugar cravings - before relaxing in a comfy chair to digest!

On that subject, the décor at Ganges is a funky mix of modern and traditional. A small shrine to Ganesha and authentic Sanskrit-inscribed sun decorations mix with twinkly glass chandeliers above every table, an enormous screen playing Bollywood music videos (and major cricket tournaments) and even a small stage for an India-trained Chinese dancer to perform most weekends. The Village branch also has a charming roof-top terrace offering rare clear views over Sanlitun to really crown the evening.

With tasty, high-quality fare, good service and comfortable surroundings, Ganges restaurant offers a fantastic dining experience. And in case you were wondering, yes it more than matches its UK counterparts!

Service quality:

good

Food quality:

very good

Price per head (RMB):

100-200

Environment:

very good

Feature dish or menu:

Tandoori Prawns (108RMB)

Tandoori Chicken (quarter, half and whole portions)

Prawn Masala (68RMB)

Murg Masalam (51RMB)

Channa Masala (44RMB)

Palak Paneer (44RMB)

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