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The ageless architect of ancient silk

Master craftswoman uses precise technological innovation to resurrect and preserve China's endangered, centuries-old Song brocade tradition, Deng Zhangyu reports in Suzhou, Jiangsu.

By Deng Zhangyu | China Daily | Updated: 2026-06-19 10:41

Song brocade with different traditional patterns designed by Qian. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Dating back to the Song Dynasty (960-1279), Song brocade embodies the subtle, refined aesthetics prized by ancient Chinese literati. Unlike the lavish Yun brocade reserved for royalty, Song brocade is known for its soft texture, understated sheen and delicate patterns. Its quiet elegance made it a favorite among scholars and officials, who used it to mount treasured calligraphy and paintings and, at times, to make garments for the elite.

Qian's love for Song brocade began in childhood. Her mother and grandmother both cherished silk garments, and she too became captivated by the fabric's softness and luster. In 1954, at just 15, she was admitted to the silk-weaving program at Xushuguan Sericulture School. After graduation, she joined the Suzhou Silk Research Institute.

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