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The ageless architect of ancient silk

Master craftswoman uses precise technological innovation to resurrect and preserve China's endangered, centuries-old Song brocade tradition, Deng Zhangyu reports in Suzhou, Jiangsu.

By Deng Zhangyu | China Daily | Updated: 2026-06-19 10:41

Song brocade with various traditional patterns designed by Qian Xiaoping, a national-level inheritor of Song brocade weaving techniques. [Photo provided to China Daily]

The experience transformed her understanding of silk. It made her realize that silk is not only for beautiful clothing, it is also a soft technology capable of carrying life itself.

While remaining committed to preserving traditional techniques, Qian believes Song brocade must evolve to remain relevant. "Inheritance never means rigid conservatism," she says. "If ancient craftsmanship never changes, young people will eventually turn away from it."

Her studio reflects that philosophy. She has recreated iconic Chinese landscapes such as West Lake's Curved Yard and Lotus Pool onto delicate Song brocade fabrics, bridging traditional craft and modern aesthetics. She also developed the double-sided color-changing gauze brocade weaving technique, integrating the finest craftsmanship of classic Song brocade and other silk-weaving skills.

Qian takes great pride in one innovation in particular: collaborating with the European Art Union to reproduce Italian artist Amedeo Modigliani's oil paintings using Song brocade as the medium. With her unique design skills, the women in the master painter's canvases acquire a three-dimensional texture of silk light, shadow, and color.

"Song brocade has a rich palette and distinct layers, giving these oil paintings a relief-like feel," Qian says. So far, she has reproduced six portraits.

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