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Dazzling exhibition cloaks visitors in rare, ancient couture

By Wang Xin in Shanghai | China Daily | Updated: 2026-07-10 07:04

The peerless "peacock-gold robe", one of the most anticipated treasures at the exhibition. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Focusing on representative colors and consisting of six sections, the exhibition showcases a wide variety of costumes for different occasions, including ceremonial attire, festive attire, everyday attire, and casual wear, as well as fabrics for the longpao (an emperor's 12-symbol robe), colorful silk ribbons, and the finest satin brocades from across the nation, along with exquisite jewelry.

One of the most anticipated exhibits is the peerless longpao treasure "peacock-gold robe". This imperial robe's fabric features a base of peacock feather threads spread across dark brown satin, with dragon, cloud, bat, flower, sea, and cliff motifs embroidered in twisted gold thread and five-colored velvet. As a structural color unique to bird plumage, the peacock feather produces a dazzling interplay of gold and green at different angles and in different lighting conditions.

A longpao featuring the superb technique of kesi, worn by Qing emperors during major ceremonies and rituals. [Photo provided to China Daily]

Such imperial robes, entirely covered in peacock feathers, were extremely rare even among Qing Dynasty court costumes, and the Palace Museum holds only two surviving examples. The breathtaking splendor and shimmering radiance of these delicately blended colors and techniques are difficult to capture or restore through any lens to this day. The best way to truly appreciate them is to get up close and in person.

"Ancient weaving and embroidery were not static arts. When you wear them, the light and shadow of the patterns would shift. Their colors and designs embodied and demonstrated the spirit of traditional culture," says Zhang Xin from the Palace Museum and one of the exhibition's curators.

To offer visitors the best experience while prioritizing the protection of the treasures, the World Expo Museum spent over a year preparing for the exhibition. It has specially customized display cases that can maintain constant temperature and humidity around the clock, and employs specialized lighting technology to ensure the artifacts remain in an optimal preservation environment consistently.

A piece of accessory featuring the technique of diancui (kingfisher feather inlay). [Photo provided to China Daily]

Moreover, the cases are equipped with non-reflective glass to provide a clear 360-degree view of the exhibits. Such efforts will allow visitors to fully appreciate the exhibits' intricate details as they shift under varying angles and lighting conditions. Free-of-charge bilingual audio guides and a digital exhibition are also available, offering visitors an immersive experience.

"We are extremely excited to present such a show. I see the costumes as the best and rarest couture. The supreme aesthetic expression and the highest level of craftsmanship they embody represent, arguably, the pinnacle of Chinese clothing over the past 300 years," says Liu Wentao, director of World Expo Museum.

"We expect to lead the audience to experience the power of traditional culture, the brilliance of our ancestors, and the charm of our profound history," Zhang adds.

A square embroidered patch with a cloud-and-crane motif in the kesi technique. [Photo provided to China Daily]
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